Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Mefou Wildlife Sanctuary

I decided that for my last month in Cameroon I would work at Mefou Wildlife Sanctuary (Cameroon Wildlife Aid Fund) just outside Yaounde. I came here to visit during COS Conference, and it was really cool. It is a primate center, filled with mostly chimpanzees and gorillas, but also different kinds of monkeys, baboons, and guenons. Its located in the bush, outside Yaoundé. To get there, it is about a 30 min drive on paved roads, then about another 30 min on a one lane dirt road. The road is pretty rough, but not as bad as mamfe. It is also far enough away from the capital that there is no electricity or phone network.
I left mamfe after saying my goodbyes, and came directly here. I didn’t really know what to expect when I came, but since all of the animals are rescued in some way, I knew I was working for a good cause. After taking a tour, and learning my way around, I started work with the other 5 volunteers, from all over the world. The vet is from Israel, and other volunteers are from Belgium, Germany, Mexico, and the UK. Since then, we have had another volunteer arrive from Denmark and 2 from Australia. My first main job was to get to know the chimpanzee babies. There are 4 babies, under 1 ½ years that were rescued recently. Song (m.) lived at a construction site, where he was attacked by dogs and cats and never fed. The vet said he would have only lived for another week, if he had not come. Kazi (m.) was kept as a pet, and had a metal chain tied around his waist. Now and then the owners would feed him. As he grew, the chain did not, so it grew into his body. He had to have surgery when he first arrived. Mboke (f.) arrived in a cardboard box, malnourished and suffering. Bubbaleh (f.) was born on the reserve, but her mother was too young to care for her, and dragged her around by one leg. I became mother to Song and Kazi. The babies need full time care, including formula every 3 hours during the night. When I became a mother, the two moved in with me, and slept in baskets on the floor next to my bed. I took them everywhere with me (even the bathroom), and fed them throughout. They are so cute, I can understand why people want chimps as pets, but they are a lot of work. It’s very similar to being a real mother. I would wake up at 3am to babies crying and I would have to give them milk, and hold them until they fell asleep. The difference is that the chimps are much more active. its like having a baby and a toddler, all in one. it was a great experience though, and a lot of fun.
My next job was to work in the forest, with the older set of chimpanzee babies. These ones were between 1 ½ and 3 years. They are a lot bigger, a lot rougher, and a lot more active. They slept at night in a satellite cage (in case of a soldier ant attack), but during the day we played in the forest. it was really fun watching these babies climb trees and play together. it was not as fun, when they jumped from the trees onto my head, or pulled my hair. I have quite a few bites and scratches, and I’ve lost a significant amount of hair, but I would laugh at their antics. I worked with a Chadian man, Sanda, and we watched the babies and discussed many different things, all in French. I have lots of pictures of the babies playing. The best part was what we called the “chimp train” or “chimp chain”. (I still cant decide which I prefer). the babies form a little congo line and walk together. In nature, this signifies an attack, but in the baby chimps, its adorable to watch.
I have since left the reserve, and I’m on my way back to Mamfe, to visit one last time. I will be sure to show pictures when I get home!

For more information about the reserve, go to apeactionafrica.com

Afab Send Off

On Wednesday May 26, 2010. there was a send-off for me in Afab. The school planned for it, since they were so happy that I brought water to the school. I arrived in Afab on that Tuesday night, to write out report cards, that I hadn’t yet finished. When I was done, I went to school to see my pipeline.. it was going so well! In just over 1 week, the pipeline was finished, and the bricklayer was working with cletus (my plumber) to finish the taps. There was a special church service for the students to go to, but I skipped it, so I could finish my work. Just when I had finished, Jessica and Gloria arrived. They came for the send off and the next day we were traveling to Buea
The send off was to begin at 12, which obviously didn’t happen. By 1pm we entered, but no one was there. We started around 1:30pm, to a very sparse crowd. People spoke about me, and thanked me for the water system at the school and for coming to teach. Quite a few people spoke, even a few that I didn’t know, but when I asked Bertha (my good teacher friend) to speak, she refused. She later told me that if she spoke, she would have cried. After the speakers, I became a village woman. The school bought me a traditional outfit, with lace blouse and a double wrapper. They even bought a canopy, which is a folded paper hat that looks kind of like a crown. Then I had to dance into the hall, to show everyone. At that point, I received certificates, like for my Ejagham language skills. I also had to count to everyone to show them that I know some of the language. My last certificate was for Mmon Nkim. This is an exclusive women’s dance group. In the old days, when women were circumsized, they would be kept secluded in the house for many weeks. During that time, some of the women were invited to become part of this group, so during their seclusion, they were given dance lessons. The dance tradition continues, but not the circumcision. Mmon Nkim literally means “child of circumcision.” Anyway, I was invited to be a part of it. I already knew, and had 2 previous lessons. I got dressed up in the traditional outfit (yellow/green shorts, red shirt, lots of cloth tied around me, bare feet), and danced in with two of my students that know how to dance that way. We did a few dances, and everyone got a kick out of it. Other students did the drumming for us.Gloria and Jessica took lots of pictures and videos, for everyone at home to see. When I was asked to join the group, I actually received a title. You can now refer to me as Mmon Nkim Melissa.
After the traditional dances, the big men and the principal left, and the DJ played some popular songs. The students were having so much fun dancing that I decided to join them. So did Jessica and Gloria. It felt like we were at a high school dance, but it was really fun. Eventually the students were sent home, and we went to Bertha’s to eat and hang out. To complete the night of tradition, we ate Afab’s traditional dish, eru and garri.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Mamfe Send off

My Mamfe send – off party was planned for May 22, 2010. There was a lot of preparation involved, since there electricity has been terrible for a long time, and we are in the beginning of rainy season. A few weeks before the event, I made invitations and Jessica (my roommate) helped me disburse them. We also decided to get ashwabi (matching fabric to make clothing). This was not my idea, but I was all for it. For major occasions here, they usually wear matching outfits, so they look like a family. We decided on a fabric, which looked strangely Hawaiian. We also decided to have a pig roast, the same thing we did for Lauren’s send off back in December. It was such a hit with everyone, that we thought it would be a good idea. The few days before the send off were extremely busy, as I was just finishing up school, and trying to do everything myself. As the party approached, I had to delegate, big time.
The party was at Stanson’s house, as he has a huge veranda and a huge yard. My house was going to be a little too small for the 100+ guests invited. My neighbors were extremely helpful, and offered to do the cooking. The menu included pepe soup chicken, fufu corn and vegetable, dodo (fried plantains), geloff rice, and the pork meat. It was a very Cameroonian medley, but most of them don’t like American food anyway. We rented a canopy, in case of rain, and chairs. My friend George also helped a lot, and he arranged for a DJ to come. It was turning into a raging party, and every few minutes extra people asked if they could also come.
The day of the send-off, I had arranged for everything. I just had to do some last minute shopping. I was excited bc I thought I would have time to rest that day. I was definitely wrong. I ended up having to cook the rice, pick up extra plates for the party, pick up my dress, etc. I definitely did not have time to rest. All of the volunteers in the area came for the party, and we decided to get ridiculously African outfits made. Mine looked ore flamenco than anything, and I added satin. It was classy. Jessicas looked like an 80s prom dress, and Stanson had an up and down made (button down shirt and trouser). We looked awesome, and arrived at the party.
Unfortunately, there was no light in town, and there was a big football match. Eto’o Fils, the Cameroonian football player, plays on a European team, the same team that was playing the night of my send off. Many, many people came to the party, but since we didn’t have a generator, many of them left to watch the match. That was depressing. Soon after, I arranged for a generator, so we could have light. The food came out really well, and there was a lot of it. Unfortunately, we couldn’t roast the pig, as the head broke off, but we grilled it, and it was delicious. The party wasn’t bad. I didn’t have any time to sit down, as I was arranging things, and helping, so it was tiring, but good. Speeches were made, and I tried not to cry, and gave my own short speech. I basically thanked people for coming and for the great memories.
After the party, a group of us went to Peroza, the nightclub in Mamfe. We went with the owner, so he bought 2 bottles of whiskey for us, and told us that we could play some American music. We expected this, so we made a CD in advance. The club was really fun. We danced like crazy, and they let us in for free. We all wore our ashwabi, and we danced up a storm. We finally went home around 3am. Overall, the party was a success. I received gifts, and opened them the next morning. I received some clothing (mostly cabas – muumuu like dresses), some jewelry, and 2 ebony canes. The canes were a little random. Anyway, it was fun.

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Due to difficulties posting blogs, all of the next blogs will be out of order. I apologize for any confusion.