Friday, November 27, 2009

silly blog..

so, my last blog was a little bit silly. i know i dont actually live in the depression, but sometimes it feels like it.. things can be difficult, and i stretch my money as far as it will go. there are days that i feel like i live in another world, or at least another century.

i thought of a few other things i do here, that will make me sound crazy though. i should add these to the list.

- if i have moldy bread, i cut off the mold and eat the rest
- if we go to the farm, usually we end up wearing long dresses and goign barefoot
- people wear things until you cant wear them any more. i.e. flip flops . after the straps break, people still shuffle around on the plastic part, until there are holes and the flip flop is about half the size it was to begin with


ill keep adding to the list. hope everyone had a happy thanksgiving, and an enjoyable mall-filled black friday!

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Living in the Depression

Sometimes, when i talk to people at home, i joke that i'm living like people did during the depression. yes, sometimes im exaggerating, but let me explain why i say this.
- if we have rotten food, we cut out the bad parts, but eat the rest
- i wash out plastic bags and reuse them
- i use every little tiny bit of soap, instead of buying a new block of it
- i rinse out shampoo bottles, then use the soapy water to wash my hair
- if i find a button or something that looks useful on the street, i will pick it up and keep it
- i have a lot of broken things in the house.. i just keep them because i know they will be useful some day
- i keep old papers, so i can use the back of it for scrap.. i have thousands of pieces at this point
- i keep bits of scrap fabric, in case i need it someday
- i eat expired food - case in point: over the summer i bought a bottle of ketchup (expired already). i ate it then, did not refrigerate it, and now months later, ate some again. will it make me sick?? we will see.

anyway, this blog is ridiculous, but now you can see what i am talking about. either i live like someone during the depression, or like a crazy old cat lady. you decide.

November 2009

The month of November has been a strange month. I have had many different activities, and ive been really really busy. It all started when I ran into the germans. There are a bunch of german volunteers here in mamfe. They aren’t very friendly, so I don’t know them well. I was headed to afab on a Saturday, thinking about how I didn’t want to go. I had my backpack and was just waiting for a moto to take me to the motorpark. As I slowly crossed the street, one of the germans called me over and invited me to a party. I accepted to go that night and went back to the house. The party’s main event was a pig roast. They put the pig on a spit, and roasted it over a bonfire. The rest of the party was pretty lame, but it gave me an idea….

Lauren (my postmate) is preparing to go back to the US. Her two years are finished in December, so we wanted to give her a nice send off here in mamfe. She lives in a small village outside mamfe, but she is always doing work and visiting here. I decided that the main event should be a pig roast. It was a lot of work to plan everything.. I know a man that owns a piggerie (pig farm) in afab, so I bought the pig from him. He agreed to kill, clean and gut the pig, and to send it in a vehicle to mamfe. I picked up the pig from the motorpark, and carried it on a moto to my friend george’s house. We marinated it and carried it again on a bike to a cold store (frozen fish store) where my friend agreed to store it for the next day. The party was on a Friday, so Lauren, Felicia and I spent the morning cooking fufu and eru. George was preparing fried rice and eggrolls, and we would serve the pig. I raced off to go to school, where I collected a bagful of cockroaches as an extra credit project (I later released them into the wild). I hate cockroaches. From school, I raced into town to pick up last minute things, and raced to stanson’s house, where we were holding the party. I helped to spear the pig (it was not pretty shoving a metal rod up that pigs you know what), which was gross, and we started to cook it. I helped clear the grass in the yard and start the bonfire. We decided to make punch to drink, because there are no drinks in town. The roads are so bad here, that big trucks can not pass. That means, there is no beer in town, no soda, no flour, no cabbage, etc. we don’t have anything that is heavy, unless it was carried on a boat from Nigeria. Close to dark, Lauren and I decided to bathe and change clothes. Along the way, we also had to carry plastic chairs, and pick up the borrowed dishes. The party was a bit slow moving. There was no light, so we set up candles around the verandah. It was actually nice. I had battery operated speakers, so we had music, and there was lots of food. About 20 –25 people showed up to say goodbye to Lauren. We all went around and gave advice or said something nice about Lauren. It was my turn and halfway through talking I started to cry. It was super embarrassing (people here don’t ever cry, so don’t understand it if we do), so I cut my speech short. If I cried for Lauren, what will happen when I go?? I’ll cry every day. Anyway, her send-off party turned out really nice.

Pretty much every weekend this month, I have been working on my world map project. Lauren helped me to paint a world map on the side of my school. We are just finishing up, and it looks awesome. The students struggle, because there are few textbooks, and no maps. Some students draw them in their notebooks, but its not the same. This is an opportunity for them to learn where they are in the world, and to realize how much is out there that they could learn about it.

The rest of the month has been busy moving back and forth to afab. I have ejagham tutoring 2 or 3 days per week, plus lesson planning and teaching, and after that, im spent. The end of November will have our thanksgiving celebration, and Lauren leaving. For thanksgiving, we are having grilled chicken, mashed potatoes, gravy, garlic green beans, homemade stuffing, and im pretty sure george is bringing spaghetti and meatballs. That’s not quite a normal part of thanksgiving, but, the more the merrier. After dinner, ill head back to kembong with Lauren, to finish her packing, and then 1st of December, she is gone. Its an action packed month, just like December will be. I’m planning a trip to the extreme north, which should be fun.

October 2009

The southwest province provincial meeting was scheduled for late October. I was excited to go, and have a break. I haven’t traveled anywhere in a long time. The roads around mamfe are horrible from so much rain, so vehicles aren’t leaving from mamfe. I had to take a motorcycle. I woke up at 330am to leave around 4am on my bike. It was pitch black out when I left, which was strange. A dirt road in the dark is weird when it is dark. I literally couldn’t see anything. Luckily I had a really good rider. A while down the road, I met up with other volunteers, so we could convoy. Parts of the road were absolutely terrible. At one point, we had to get off the bikes and trek through the bush, so our bike men could carry the bikes above the chest high water. It was bad. I was soaking wet and muddy by the time we reached Nguti, the halfway point. From there, we wanted to take a vehicle, but the road was too bad, so I had to hire another bike. I rode on the first bike for about 7 hours, then the second for another 2 hours. My behind was killing me by the time we arrived in konye. From there, we could take a vehicle, but we had to wait over an hour. Finally we arrived in kumba, then took another vehicle to buea, our destination. I was staying at jessamyn’s house (another pcv). She was having a party, so I ate really great homemade Indian food, and crashed early – about 9pm.

The next day, I traveled to douala for a few hours. I went to the marche de fleur, an artisan market, which had some really great crafts. I bought a few things, but not too much. We had Mediterranean food for lunch (which was delicious) and headed back to buea. The other volunteers had arrived, so we had our meeting and had dinner.

Following this, I traveled to Limbe for the day. There is a tailor there that makes custom made suits, so I got one made. Im not a big suit-wearer, but im sure it will come in handy when I get home. Of course, I stopped in at the beach, ,and visited one that I have never been to before, Etisah. It was nice, but I prefer my usual beach. After, we all went to down beach for fresh calamari (its to die for, and at $1 a stick, you cant go wrong). This calamari is amazing. Instead of cutting it horizontally and making rings, like we do, the cut it vertically so you have strips. Then, the put the strips on a stick, like a shish kebab and grill it. Its the most amazing thing ive ever eaten. This was only an appetizer, and later we ate grilled fish.

I ended up going to limbe again. My body was tired from the moto trip, and I couldn’t bear to do it again so soon. I went to the old beach, which is really nice. It was a crappy day, and started raining, but the water was so warm. It was really fun, bc the waves were really choppy. Its fun to act like a kid and play in the waves. Sadly, I almost lost my glasses in the ocean (again). I ‘m lucky though, I haven’t lost them yet. After the beach, we ate a double cheeseburger dinner. I don’t really miss cheeseburgers, until I eat one from hot spot. Eating it, reminds me what im missing.

I made a major purchase in buea. There is this new thing out; a USB key that has wireless internet. Its brand new here, and expensive, but I was so tired of not being able to keep in touch with anyone. We rarely have internet in mamfe, so now its really nice for me to have in the house.

When I returned to mamfe, I had to take a bike again. It wasn’t quite as tiring this time, but it was muddier and we got rained on. It really sucked arriving wet, muddy, and not having any light or running water. This week marked the 3 week of no light/water in mamfe. Not cool. But anyway, I was glad to return home to mamfe and rest.

Teacher's Day 2009

October 5 is international teacher’s day. There is even fabric made, so you can get a special outfit made. Of course, I did, and now I have a cute dress. Last year I spent the day in mamfe, and marched past the grandstand with other teachers of GBHS Mamfe. This year, I decided to spend it in the village. The morning of, I traveled with other teachers from my school in Afab and some from the primary and nursery schools in afab, to Ossing, where they were holding the events. It was about an hour away. We arrived at the chief’s palace, and marched through town, singing songs about teachers. I had never heard any of the songs, so sadly, I couldn’t sing. We arrived at the main field in town to listen to speeches from principals and delegates of education, then watched sports. There was a tug of war between all of the area schools and then a football match (sorry, I mean soccer). It was entertaining (especially when players kicked off their shoes accidentally, or fell in the mud), but it was so hot outside that I started to get drowsy. When the match was finished, there was a break time, where we could all get a drink, then we went to the Ossing meeting hall to eat. Every teacher that went could eat and take a drink. The principals tried to invite me to the “high table” where they sit, but I refused. Sometimes, I would like to be treated like I’m not different than everyone else. Anyway, they ran out of food,, which was a bummer, so by the time I went to the table to take my own,, the portions were tiny. When everyone finished eating, we opened the dance floor, and then there was dancing. It had started to rain, so we decided to head back to afab before the roads were too bad. The day was very different from last year in mamfe, but it was nice to spend it with the village teachers.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

September 2009

Late August and early September have been very busy. I received two new postmates, an education volunteer in Okoyong, Gloria, and a business volunteer here in mamfe, Stanson. Most of my days were filled with shopping, for mattresses, buckets, kitchen supplies, you name it. I don’t mind at all though. I am lucky to know places in town. Lauren did the same for me when I arrived.
Doesn’t it figure, that the week after Kevin left, my computer broke. I had to find a technician to fix it for me, and paid a lot of money. Luckily, I have it now.
Food has been scarce here in Mamfe. All of our vegetables come from Bamenda, and the roads are really bad now. We are having a terrible rainy season, so all of the roads have turned to mud. All of the large trucks that transport our food are unable to pass on the roads. Light has also been scarce, and with that, water. Its been a difficult month.
School began on September 7. My program for school changed this year. I am now working part time in a village, Afab, about an hour away, and part time here in mamfe. GSS Afab is a form 3 school, so they only have forms 1, 2, and 3, but they have 350 students. They were really struggling for teachers, because no one wants to work in the bush, so I wanted to help them. I am teaching form 1 computer, biology, and math, and form 2 computer. Needless to say, it keeps me busy. The other teachers are really nice, but I struggle with these students. They have had a sketchy school beginning, so their knowledge is all over the place. My form 2 computer class never took form 1 computer, so im starting from scratch. Out of all my computer students, only 1 has ever seen a computer. Its difficult to teach there. Also, there are not enough classrooms in the school. They have a wood partition down the center, so 2 classes share the room. You can hear everything in the other class, and it really disturbs. I have a room at the community hall in Afab, but that is a struggle bc there are no kitchen facilities, and the bathroom is down the hall. I’m taking it all in stride, and it doesn’t bother me too much. I try to spend most of my time with Cameroonians, and they are trying to teach me the dialect, Ejagham. It is nothing like any language I’ve ever learned, but I’m trying.
I am still teaching at GBHS Mamfe. I’m teaching form 2 biology again, and I love it. I really like the kids at this age, and it can be fun. Mostly I try to scare them with crazy facts, but it only works sometimes. They are active and they never shut up, but it makes the class a bit more fun. Coming back to mamfe after being in Afab is like a little taste of heaven, and mamfe finally feels like home. I cant imagine what it will feel like to go back to the US. Lauren is preparing for her departure in December, and I am the next one to leave. Soon, I’ll be returning to my real home, and missing all of these crazy things here.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Summer 2009

After returning from Egypt and Morocco, things were still busy. I had my mid-service training (complete with medical tests) in Yaounde, then training in Bangangte. I had extensive medical tests in yaounde, and all that is wrong with me is yeast in my intestines. Apparently that is very common, because we eat so little dairy. We had a nice time hanging out, and had some great group meals. We made pad thai one night, that was delicious. We also went to a place called Café Yaounde for dinner for a volunteers birthday, and it is my new favorite restaurant. It is Italian food, prepared by Italians, and it is amazing. Expensive, but amazing. One Saturday that I was in yaounde, a bunch of us went to a Rasta party. Late in the evening, a bunch of rastas, and other people meet to play drums. Its very tribal music, with only the drums, no other instruments. We all danced the night away, and it was really fun. Dancing was difficult, bc it was hard to find one beat, so I’m sure we all looked stupid, but it was great. We didn’t leave until about 4am.
I left for bangante a few days after that, to help with training for the new volunteers. Things were busy there, and then I traveled back to yaounde for the 3rd of july party at the US Embassy. It was my first visit there, so it was neat. The embassy prepared hamburgers, and the rest of the food was potluck. I never knew there were so many Americans in Cameroon. There were hundreds of people there. We hung out for a while and ate, and then visited the American marines that stay at the embassy. That night I left for Bamenda, so I could return to Mamfe, but when I arrived the next morning, I was too tired to travel. I instead celebrated 4th of july with a few volunteers.
I returned back to Mamfe just in time for the Ed volunteer’s site visit. I finally found out who my new postmate would be, so Lauren and I showed her around.
Later in the week, I headed to Buea/douala to pick up Kevin. I was nervous for his arrival, but everything worked out really well, and we had a great time. During his visit, we visited the beach in Limbe, training in Bangangte (for model school), Bazou to visit Brandi, Bamenda, the palace in Bafut, and all of the sights in Mamfe. The best times we had were just relaxing and hanging out. I forgot how nice it is to have him around all the time. We watched movies and met my Cameroonian friends, and cooked meals. Felicia taught Kevin how to kill a chicken, and we prepared a delicious meal. Edward really liked Kevin and bought him a chief’s necklace and bracelet. All of my friends wanted to meet him and spend time with him, so I think Kevin really enjoyed his visit. There are always the difficult things, like no light, no water, vehicles stuck in mud, waiting everywhere, things moving slowly, people being late, etc, but kev took it all in stride. He didn’t really complain, ever. One highlight of his visit was Lauren’s title ceremony. Lauren received a title from one village, Ogomoko. The country director, and Lauren’s APCD came and received their own titles. It was a cool ceremony, with monikin dancers, speeches in the dialect, Ejagham, and lots of food. Kevin got sick once, but only for a few days, so it wasn’t bad. I hated taking him back to the airport. It was so sad for me to see him go, knowing I wouldn’t see him for another year. He left, arrived home safely, and I started to prepare for school.

Morocco

DAY 1 (June 9, 2009) – We arrived in Casabanca about midday, and immediately took a train to Marrakesh. We were just passing through though, bc we then found a vehicle to Essaioura (Essa wera). We traveled the entire day, and didn’t arrive until after midnight. Then, we couldn’t find a hotel. It was horrible. We were so tired, and had to speak French. Luckily we made friends with one Moroccan man, who helped us. We ended up staying in a really expensive place though. The highlight of the day what learning that cherries are really common in morocco. I bought half a kilo.

DAY 2 – I woke up early in the morning and climbed to the rooftop terrace. The view was beautiful. You could see the ocean, the walls of the city, and all of the other rooftops. I stood there for over an hour, just looking. Kat and I shopped for most of the day, and we saw the beach. It was too cold to swim, but the area was beautiful. As we were just getting tired we heard a man playing guitar in one of the shops. We stopped in to listen, and made friends with him and his friend. Younes and Kareem were very friendly, and invited us to dinner that night. Before we met them, kat and I got henna. I got a temporary tattoo on my hand and one one my foot. Kat got two as well. I also bought a djallabah, a traditional robe. I started wearing it, and Moroccans loved it. They all treated me really well when I wore the dress and spoke a bit of Arabic. People really appreciate when you make an effort. We met the boys in the evening, for a traditional tajine. It is a sculpted clay pot, where all of the food is just thrown inside together and steamed. The spices make it taste a little smoky, a little spicy, but its delicious. While we ate, they played music. The boys are actually in a band. We heard their cd, and they are awesome. We searched for it, but couldn’t find a copy.

DAY 3 – We hung out with the boys in the morning while we waited for our late bus to Marrakesh. When we arrived, we had trouble finding a hotel, but people at a cyber were willing to help us, even carrying our stuff. People are so friendly in Morocco. There was a group of Peace Corps volunteers in Marrakesh for a training session, so we wanted to meet them in the evening. We didn’t know where we were going, so a retired policeman gave us a ride.. again, so friendly! It was really cool to meet the volunteers. They have different specialties than here in Cameroon, and a different training program, so it was interesting to compare. According to what they told me, most of them are pretty lucky, with nice houses, and internet. A lot of them work with kids at a youth program, which sounds like something I would like.

DAY 4 – We went to the main square in Marrakesh, Djemma el-Fna. I have been there before, but its still pretty cool. We saw snake charmers, and women doing henna, and a monkey jumped on my head. That was actually terrifying. I love monkeys, but this one was dirty and mangy. It probably gave me some disease when it tried to eat my hair. We drank fresh squeezed orange juice, and I ate a traditional chickpea soup. We also booked a tour for the next day, into the Sahara desert. (coincidently, the same tour group I took before)

DAY 5 – We left early with our tour group. We had a really interesting group, with everyone living in a different country than the one we were born in. We had a man from Sweden living in germany, a Moroccan living in the us, Canadians living in England, Cyprians living in England, and me and kat, Americans living in Cameroon. The first stop was Ait Ben-Haddou, a famous kasbah (clay village). This one had some parts shaped like castles, but they were made of mud. From there we drove to Oarzazate for lunch. There is a film studio there, where they actually filmed Gladiator. We passed through the Draa valley, and the winding Atlas Mountains, where I was very very carsick, and then to Zagora. It is the last city before you enter the desert. We were a bit delayed because of a sandstorm, but I guess it died down and we rode camels into the Sahara. Our plan was to stay with nomadic Berbers in the desert for the night. They construct huge tents on the sand, for people to stay. We arrived when it was still light, so we played in the sand dunes. We played just like children, jumping off and rolling in the sand, but it was really fun. After dark, we had dinner, a tajine of course, which was delicious, then drank tea and played music. They used empty water jugs for drums, and we all sang. It was really fun. At first I felt stupid, but I’m so glad that I joined in. it was fun, and completely worth anything thinking I looked stupid. We planned to sleep in the tent, but it was such a beautiful night that we dragged out mattresses and slept on the sand under the stars. It was beautiful.

DAY 6 – I woke up before sunrise, to flies buzzing around my head. Unfortunately, that is very common in the desert. I watched the sunrise, then we had a short camel ride back to our vehicle. I was carsick again, and I ate some melon for lunch. They have a honeydew type melon in morocco that is really good. Its yellow on the outside, and green on the inside. They don’t even have a name for it, but it is delicious. The driver dropped us at the bus station, and we bought tickets for an overnight bus to Fes. We planned to stay there with another Peace Corps volunteer, Duncan. There was a bit of difficulty with the bus, because the station closed before the bus left, but we made friends with one of the agents, so he helped us. We finally left, and the ride was uneventful.

DAY 7 – We arrived in Fes early in the day, so just relaxed in the medina (city center) while we waited for Duncan. I really wanted to go to a hammam, but I didn’t want to go by myself, so I missed out. A hammam is a single sex bathhouse, where someone scrubs you down with a rough sponge and then throws buckets of water at you. There is also a steam room, and it is supposed to be relaxing and invigorating. I’m still bummed that I missed out, but its designed as a social activity. When Duncan arrived, we visited a tannery. We went to a rooftop to see how they tan and prepare leather. It smelled a bit like sulfur, but it didn’t bother by chemist’s nose. I’ve seen pictures of these tanneries before, but its nothing like seeing it. They have different vats for every color, and men go into the vats to step on and move the leather around. Sadly, men that work at tanneries usually die earlier than other men because of all of the chemicals. In the U.S., when you buy a leather jacket, or a leather purse, you never realize how much work goes into preparing it. We had a guide that explained the process to us. First they put the skins in lye for 2 weeks, then into pigeon poop for another week, followed by water for 1 week, before color. He told us how they use all natural herbs for the dye. They use indigo for blue, saffron for yellow, henna for red, etc. the skins dry in the sun, and then tailors sew the leather items. From there, we visited a rug “factory”, where the men showed us how they make all of the rugs, and then to a place where they make argan oil. It is very famous there, and nice. They do all of the work by hand on a press. The oil looks like thin peanut butter, and tastes pretty good. We visited a beautiful mosque after, called Madrassa Bou Inania. It’s not a mosque anymore, but a training center of some kind. The inside is beautiful, filled with mosaic tile. We were tired then, so we traveled to Duncan’s village, Immouzer. It is not actually a village, but a beautiful mountain retreat, where spring water comes from. We visited the market in Immouzer, which is surprisingly similar to Cameroon. I learned however, that in morocco, zucchini is a very bad word. We prepared a tajine for dinner, so now I know how.

DAY 8 – We relaxed in the morning, and saw more of Immouzer. The country built these beautiful waterways to hold the spring water, and they look like canals. There are benches all around so you can sit and enjoy. We had a delicious chicken lunch, and there, I made my fateful mistake. I saw that ice cold water on the table and I drank it. All of the volunteers there drink tap water, so I thought I would be okay. Later, at the Fes market with Kat, I realized my mistake. I was very very sick. I will never drink tap water again. We did our last bit of shopping, and headed back to Duncan’s for the night.

DAY 9 – We were up early for a long day of traveling. We went first to Ifrane, to find a vehicle for Meknes, then a vehicle to Moulay Idriss, then another to Volubolis (also called Wilili). Volubolis used to be an entire town, but is now just ruins. No one knows what happened, or why, which makes it more interesting. You can walk through each of the buildings, and still see mosaic floors or structures of some type. The area was huge, and it was unbelievable to think that in a short period of time, all of the people disappeared. We even saw archaeologists while we were there. When we finished, we took that long journey back to Meknes, then Casablanca, then to the airport. We had a late flight back to Cameroon.

DAY 10 – Arrival in Cameroon.

Egypt

DAY 1 - On Friday May, 29, I had a 3am flight to Egypt. I was traveling with Kat, another volunteer here. We traveled to Douala, where another volunteer, Felipe was living. The evening before we left, we went to a party at his friend’s house. There are a lot of ex-patriots living in Douala, and Felipe is friends with many of them. There are also a lot of volunteers there from other countries. All of these foreigners somehow became friends, so I met a lot of them at the party. We hung out for a while, then Felipe helped us get to the airport. We checked in, and flew to Casablanca Morocco for our layover. Luckily, Royal Air Maroc is awesome. If you ask, they offer a guest house if you have a long layover. They gave us a shuttle to a really nice hotel, a free buffet lunch, and shuttle back to the airport. All of this was free, so kat and I enjoyed a nice nap, lounge by the pool, and a ton of food. We continued that evening to Cairo.

DAY 2 – We arrived late in the night, so went to a hotel, then back to the airport to meet kat’s parents. On the bus to the airport, we made a few Egyptian friends, and I started to learn Arabic. I don’t know why, but that language intrigues me. I guess I have too much experience with the romance languages and crave something different. We picked up her parents, and went to our hotel. We had a nice kebab dinner, and smoked some sheesha. Now, I don’t like cigarettes, in fact I think they are disgusting , but so many people in Egypt smoke sheesha that I wanted to see what it was all about. It is just flavoured tobacco that they smoke out of a hookah, but I think its all about the socializing. A group of people will sit around the hookah for hours, just talking and enjoying. I think it’s the same way that Cameroonians are with a bottle of beer. You don’t buy it because you love it. You buy it for the social aspect. Anyway, the sheesha wasn’t horrible, but it gave me a headache.

DAY 3 – The first real day of the tour began, with the Egyptian Museum. It was really cool. We saw old tombs and statues and carvings. We saw a copy of the Rosetta stone, originally found in Egypt, but now in the British museum in London. We even saw King Tut’s tomb, with a lot of the items that he was buried with. That was amazing. We saw his outer tomb (there were actually 3), but it was the best one. It was all gold (12 kg of it), with gem and paint inlay. There are scarab beetles on it for luck, and the cobra, for protection and royalty. We saw a ton of the jewelry he was buried with (for the afterlife), and most of it was solid gold, with gems and different stones. Sadly, I didn’t have a chance to see the Mummy room, but I heard it was spooky, seeing all the dead bodies. I saw pictures of some, and a few still have hair and fingernails. Gross. From there, we traveled to Giza, to see the pyramids and the Sphinx. There are 3 pyramids there, Cheops was buried inside the Great Pyramid, Kefrin in the Second pyramid, and the Third pyramid has Mykerenos. The pyramids are a lot larger than you could ever imagine, with each block almost as tall as me. Each pyramid has thousands upon thousands of blocks. Its amazing. We didn’t pay to go into the great pyramid, but we did to go in the Second pyramid. you climb down a small ramp into the center. The opening is barely large enough to fit through, and you much hunch over. There is a flat space in the middle, then the path climbs up again, and there is a large chamber. Along the way, you can see where they closed up the tomb. There was nothing in the pyramid anymore, but it was pretty neat to see. It was really really hot inside though, so I didn’t stay long. From there we saw the Sphinx, also larger than you would imagine. You can not get very close to it though. Two days later, Barack Obama walked through the same places that I did. He was on every news channel, and part of his tour in the pyramid was shown on CNN. We traveled to a papyrus school after and saw how Egyptians make papyrus. I was tempted to buy some, but I knew I had a lot of traveling ahead of me, so I didn’t. when people completed their purchases, we went to the train station to go to Aswan.

DAY 4 – We arrived in Aswan, which soon became my favorite place in Egypt. Everything in Egypt is along the Nile River, because it’s the only fertile land. Everything else is desert. Aswan is very relaxed and calm, almost like a beach town. There was an excursion, but I was running short of money, so I went into town to get more. I used my few Arabic words to bargain for a pair of sunglasses, so I was pretty proud of myself. After, I went to the Nubian museum with some other tourists in my group. That was really cool. The Nubians were another group of people living in the southern part of Egypt. Their history is a bit longer than the Egyptians. In the museum, every single thing was over 3000 years old. I saw a human fossil from 17.000 years ago, and pottery from 6000 years ago, still in good condition. It was amazing. Outside the museum, there were caves, and they put actual cave paintings in them. The history in this country is amazing. It really makes you think about all the things that have happened throughout history, before we came along. We took a taxi back to the hotel, and the driver wanted to buy me for his wife, in exchange for the taxi fare. In the evening, we took a motorboat across the Nile and rode camels. My camel’s name was Mohammed. Every time I wanted him to go, I was supposed to yell “Yalla” which means “lets go”. After our ride, we visited a Nubian village for a traditional meal – there was moussaka, tomatoes, cucumbers, pita bread, rice and a few other dishes I didn’t recognize. It wasn’t completely traditional bc they also had ziti and French fries. It was all delicious. After we ate, a few of us got henna tattoos, which was fun.

DAY 5 – We got up at 3am to travel to Abu Simbel. It is a really famous monument, near the border of the Sudan, and there are a lot of kidnappers and bandits, so everyone that wants to go, must travel with a tour group, and you must be in the convoy. It leaves every morning at 4am, and if you miss it, the road is closed and you can not pass. There is a checkpoint at the beginning of the road, with lots of guards and machine guns, a long road through the desert, and a checkpoint at the end, with more guards and machine guns. It was about a 3 hour journey. At Abu Simbel, there are two temples. Ramses II built one for himself, and one for his wife, Nefertari, which was unusual. A few years ago, the nile started to flood the temples, so UNESCO funded a project that cut each temple into cubes and shifted the millions of cubes back 300m. it took years to complete the project, and now, you would never be able to tell that it was taken apart and reassembled. The temple of Ramses is huge, many hundreds of feet high. Inside there are paintings and carvings, and both temples were really cool. I spent a few hours just staring at the paintings. We left around midday to get back, and had a traditional Egyptian lunch, called kochery. It’s a bowl of spaghetti, rice, elbows, chickpeas, crunchy lentils, and chickpeas. You then choose which sauces to add to it, like a spicy one, or garlic. It’s a strange meal, but not bad. I got an ice cream cone after lunch, then went for a swim in the pool. The pool was right next to the nile, and had an amazing view. In the evening we went for a group dinner then to the market. I bought a few things. Im really comfortable in the markets there – they are just like the ones in Cameroon. You have to bargain for everything. Since I was used to it, shopping was easy.

DAY 6 – In the morning, went to the market quickly with kat for a scarf. The Egyptian cotton is so nice, and there are so many nice scarves, that I ended up buying one also. We rushed back to begin our felucca (sailboat) ride down the nile to Luxor. The felucca was large, covered with mattresses and pillows so we could relax. It was really nice for a few hours, but then got a little boring. At lunchtime, we went for a swim in the nile. Its really not the safest thing, but I couldn’t resist. There are lots of crocodiles and schisto, but I took the risk. There were a few little kids up on the dunes, so I thought I would climb up with them. It took me a few tries, bc that sand was hot! We continued on down the nile, and for fun, we held on to ropes behind the boat and had it pull us. That boat was moving surprisingly fast. We stopped at an island for another swim, then a different island later to stop for dinner and the night. It is illegal to take a boat on the nile at night. There were a few other tour groups there, and one of them had a bonfire and singing, so a few of us checked it out. Throughout the day I became friends with one of the deckhand’s son, Abdu. I was practicing my Arabic with him, and he showed us the way to the bonfire. I learned the Arabic phrase “in your dreams” and I tried to practice it with Abdu. It was pretty fun.

DAY 7 – I did not sleep very well that night on the boat, bc it was surprisingly cold and noisy. I was up early enough to watch the sunrise, which was beautiful. After a short boat ride, we stopped and drove to the komombo temple. It’s a really interesting temple, bc its two in one. Half is dedicated to horus, the falcon god, and half to the crocodile god. It was really neat to see how the two were joined. From there, we saw the Edfu temple, the second largest in Egypt, and then traveled on to Luxor. Karnak temple is in the area, which is the largest temple in Egypt. I went with a few other people, and it was really cool. I read about it in the guidebook first, and the main point of interest is an area with 138 huge columns, designed to look like papyrus stalks with lotus flowers at the top. If the temple was ever flooded, you would see the tops of the papyrus, just like when it is growing. Anyway, they were huge and amazing. I walked through the area in awe. Each column is over 100ft high, and so wide that if I try to hug the column, I cant even reach halfway around. It was one of the best temples. In the evening, we were all temple-ed out, so I strolled through town with one of my friends. Luxor has its own temple in the center of town, so we just looked at the outside. Each night it was lit up and really pretty.

DAY 8 – We took a boat across the Nile for our donkey rides to the Valley of the Kings. My donkey’s name was Casablanca, and surprisingly comfortable. Much more comfortable than the camel. When we arrived in the valley, we saw 3 tombs: Thutmes, Septaken, and Ramses IV. They were really cool. They were all underground, with many chambers. There are fake chambers at the beginning, to throw off thieves and tomb robbers. Inside all of the chambers and halls are paintings. They are still in amazing condition. In fact, that is how these tombs were discovered. There was flooding in the valley of the kings, and someone passing through saw a river of blue water. They traced the source, and found the opening to a tomb.There were also stone caskets inside. Sadly, I didn’t see King Tut’s tomb. It was one of the most boring inside, with no paintings, but you could see his little tiny mummy. It is only about 4 feet long, but so fragile that they can not move it from the tomb. From there we got back on our donkeys and visited an alabaster factory. We had a chance to watch men carve the alabaster, and it was really neat. Then, to Hatchepsout’s temple. She was the only female pharaoh, and served for about 20 years. Hers was my favorite temple in Egypt. It was huge and beautiful. At the side there was a small temple dedicated to Amun-Ra. It was outside, but had paintings and carvings that were in great shape. Sadly, in the evening I was a typical tourist, and I ate at Mcdonald’s. I hate eating chain restaurant food when I travel, but it was one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten. I had a mcchicken sandwich, fries, and a chocolate milkshake. Amazing.

DAY 9 – We flew from Luxor back to Cairo in the morning. Straight from the airport, I drove to Alexandria with Kat and her parents. We visited Pompey’s pillar, which is one single pillar. The area is a marriage between Roman and Egyptian architecture, which is interesting. There is a place to go underground, to see the Daughter Library. It was Cleopatra’s library, where she stored her correspondance with Mark Antony. We left there and went to see the Catacombs. It is basically an underground mausoleum. There is space to hold about 500 bodies, including children (which was sad – seeing mini tombs), and an altar to sacrifice horses. After, we saw the Biblioteca Alexandrina, the largest library in the world, before going to the Fish Market, a famous seafood restaurant, where we were taken advantage of because we were tourists.

DAY 10 – We relaxed in the morning and watched MTV Arabia. It was really interesting bc we watched American shows with English subtitles, and censoring. Anything that was even remotely scandalous was beeped out or covered with the black rectangle. Even the word “intimate” was beeped out, and girls in swimsuits were covered with the black square. It was ironic that they were showing a story about a gay man. In the afternoon we went to the Citadel. It is a huge walled compound, containing one of the oldest mosques in the world. It is now a military fort, and there are 3 different museums inside. We had a chance to enter the mosque, and I’m so glad I did. Usually if you are not muslim, you can not enter. I was just in time for the call to prayer, and it was amazing to see.

DAY 11 – Kat and I brought her parents to the airport, and did some things in Cairo. We mostly went shopping. We strolled to the market (which took a very very long time), but on the way drank mango juice. It was amazing, and really cheap at a vendor’s stall. For hours we shopped. We literally shopped til we dropped, but I found some great souvenirs to bring back, like leather and Egyptian cotton.

DAY 12 – Leave for Morocco.

May 2009

So May passed by in a flash. At the beginning of the month, I was finishing up school. Final exams went well, with little cheating thankfully, and I filled in report cards. All grades (called marks here) are filled by hand, so it takes forever. On my last day of school, a horrible thing happened. A was riding a bike (motorcycle taxi) to school, which I do every day. Near the primary school, there are quite a few speed bumps, to get people to slow down. Of course, this doesn’t really slow the bike men. They just speed up in between each one. My bike man wasn’t paying attention, and when a small child ran out into the road, the bike collided. The child flew off across the road, somehow losing both shoes, and we stopped to see if he was ok. Thankfully the child was only upset, not injured, but it was terrifying. These kind of accidents are commonplace here, but it doesn’t stop me from getting nervous everytime I travel.
At the end of May, I had to travel to Yaounde to help with the new SED/ED training program. I traveled with a friend to Bamenda first, before continuing on. I traveled by motorcycle to Bamenda, which was interesting. It took about 3 ½ hours on a rutted dirt road. My behind was very sore by the end. I stayed overnight with my Cameroonian friend, but we met a few volunteers in the area. We decided to go for roasted fish, and we were relaxing and enjoying ourselves. All of a sudden, a young man reached over and stole one girl’s purse. It took us a minute to understand what was happening, and finally one girl started yelling “thief! Thief!” Unfortunately we had decided to dine in an area filled with thieves, so when we yelled for help, everyone let the thief pass by. Our Cameroonian friends tried to follow the man, to no avail. It delayed our trip to Yaounde, because we had to wait for hours at the police station the next morning. Its horrible to be robbed here. My friend did not even lose anything worth money, but it feels like an invasion.
After the police station, we traveled to Yaounde and began training. The two weeks passed by really quickly, with planning during the day, and nice meals at night. A few of the girls are great at cooking in bulk, so we had great meals, like quiche, spinach ravioli, and chili with cornbread. I ate better in those two weeks, than I probably do in 6 months at post. May 20 was National Day, kind of like an independence day. We heard loud noises from outside, and we thought a storm was brewing. We went up to the 2nd floor balcony of the PC house, and could see fireworks in town. It was a long show, and really cool. We had one main event halfway through training, and it was the Peace Corps prom. No one could decide on a theme, so all of the potentials were melded into the “Post-apocolyptic winter wasteland”. People went to the fripperie (second-hand shop) to find outfits, and I tagged along. I didn’t buy anything, but I made a lot of Cameroonian friends. One of them even bought me a cup of fried termites. I had seen students collecting them at school (they arrive as soon as the first rains fall after dry season), but never an urge to try them until now. I was very nonchalant, saying sure I would eat them, and had one in my hand, but as it came closer to my mouth, my hand moved slower and slower. I had a really hard time putting it in my mouth, but I did it. It was surprisingly good, a bit crunchy with a touch of pepe. I ended up eating the whole cup. Anyway, when I arrived at the prom, I was not dressed up, so a few girls decided to help me. I ended up wearing a plastic market bag as a shirt, with my hair all crazy. Most people there looked like zombies, so it wasn’t a bad party. I had spent my free time cutting snowflakes, and people made a dance floor. Sadly the preparation made most of us so tired that we didn’t last too long in the evening.
The rest of training passed quickly, and then I was on my way to Douala for my holiday to Egypt.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

April / May 2009

After easter break, things quieted down a little. Here are some highlights...

- I was very tough on my students. We had an exam in class and the students cheated horribly. At school i am only alotted 100 sheets of paper per sequence. I have 500 students, so I have to give them the paper exam, tell them not to write on it, and collect them for use in the other classes. Unfortunately, this time, students stole copies, and gave them to other students. I found out, so i cancelled the scores from the exam, and gave them a new harder exam on the blackboard. Most of the questions were the same as on the first exam, so i thought it was fair. If the students studied for the first exam, they should be prepared for the second. If they planned to cheat, they will fail. This was the first time that i was really really tough on the kids. Now i am prepared to be tougher for next year.

- I have a french tutor. One of my neighbors is a french teacher for anglophone students in primary school. I met him through another teacher, and we arranged to meet a few times per week for french lessons. He gave me a brief assessment, and I speak french at a Form 2 level (8th grade). Hopefully that will improve

- May 1 is Labor Day. Lauren came into town, so I spent time with her. This is the first time that I missed the march past at the grandstand, but it was ok. Later in the evening, we met Jimmy for grilled fish. There were huge crowds of people celebrating the holiday. I also met the mother of one of my students. That was nice.

-EYUMOJOCK

-I traveled to eyumojock with my staff social group. Earlier in the year, they came to visit us, so now it was our turn to visit them. We traveled in the back of a pickup truck , which was not very comfortable. Eyumojock is pretty close to Nigeria, and the road is terrible. Of course, i got carsick. We arrived at GBHS Eyumojock and the students greeted us with songs. It was nice. After lunch, we started the games portion of the day, with cards, ping pong, and checkers. I played cards, and came in second place. Around that time, the rain started, so the volleyball match, and soccer match were played in the pouring rain. We had some time to rest, then we prepared for the evening dinner. I got dressed up and ate dinner with the principal's family, then around 10pm (2 hours late - african time), we went to the hall. I was already tired, and after 2 hours of speeches, I lost all interest and took a brief nap. It was rude, but i was just so tired. Around 1am, we were served dinner. After dinner was dancing, but i left as soon as possible to go to bed.
-The next morning, i was up early, bc we were traveling to Lake Ejagham. Its a beautiful lake, with many stories of legend. For example if you are traveling near the lake and you have no food or water, you can pray to the ancestors (who live in the lake) to give you some. The food and water will then rise up out of the center of the lake, and you can swim or row out to get it. Also, in the middle of the night, you can hear drum beats coming from the center of the lake, from the ancestors. Anyway, after that, we went to lunch and headed back to Mamfe. I was really frustrated on the way back. the teachers were really making fun of me. they were asking me things in the dialect or in slang words that i obviously didnt understand and laughing at me. Most of the time i can laugh back, but sometimes its difficult.

-In other news, I got sick again. Bacterial dysentery this time, and that is not fun. Its a good experience bc now i understand it but i dont want it ever again.

-I was really busy with the last week of school. I gave my final exam, which went well. I had one of the discipline masters at school come to each class for collection. The school really worked to make sure that there was little or no cheating on the final exams. In my free time, when i wasnt marking exams, i helped the secretary at school type exams. She was given too much work to handle, and then the delegate at the ministry of secondary education gave her more work. i didnt mind helping though.

-YAOUNDE
-I missed some school to travel to yaounde to help plan training for the new sed/ed trainees. We worked for 2 weeks to plan everything, and had some group events in between. One pcv was leaving, so there was a ceremony for her. we cooked some group meals like homemade ravioli, chili/cornbread, and quiche. it was delicious. during the weekend, we decided to have a peace corps prom. there was a tie on the theme, so our new theme became 'post apocolyptic winter wasteland'. most everyone dressed like zombies, and we wore ridiculous clothes. i actually wore a plastic market bag . it was really fun though. At the end of the 2 weeks, i was preparing for vacation to egypt and morocco.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Spring Break aka Easter Holiday

After returning from mt. cameroon, I had some time to rest before my friend Ben, another pcv came to visit. We just hung out in mamfe, and one night we went to a born-house with Felicia. Here, instead of having a baby shower, they have a big party about a month after the baby is born. There is traditional singing and dancing, and they spread baby powder on everyone to wish them fertility. Then of course, there is always a big meal. Felicia’s sister had a baby so I was invited. We sat for a while until dinner, and just as we were about to eat, the power went out. I’m always surprised when the light goes out, and you would think by now I would be used to it. The only other big activity was that I took Ben to see our german bridge. it’s the only thing in the tour guides about mamfe, so I always take people to see it. The next day, we left for Bamenda. We went to visit a couple volunteers there. There are a ton of pcvs in the area. Also, I had one friend from the north that was traveling down, so I wanted to catch up with her. They have done a lot of work on the mamfe-bamenda road, so the journey wasn’t too bad. When we arrived we dropped our stuff at the transit house, and a group of us went out to a fancy restaurant for dinner. The next day, we went to doug’s house. He lives in this fancy compound in a village outside bamenda. We went into town to see the market, and had a nice salad lunch. Salad!! Made with lettuce!!! I havent seen lettuce in months. Probably almost a year. It was delicious. There is a health food store that prepares it. It was delicious. Then, we made cheeseburgers and fries for dinner. That was a good meal too.
The next day we went back to town to go shopping. I wanted to buy fabric to make some clothes. I have been saving money just for this purpose. I have also heard the fabric market in bamenda is great. We stopped for lunch first and had salad again, then went to buy things. Every store I went in, people were rude to me. They were unwilling to bargain, and it was not fun for me. Markets here are filled with negotiation. You can negotiate for anything. It becomes a game with the vendor. People in bamenda were unwilling to play the game, so I gave up and didn’t buy anything. It was very disappointing. In the evening, we all played cards and had a blast. I don’t know the last time I laughed that hard. It made up for my crappy shopping experience. In the morning, we went back to the transit house to meet my friend from the north, kate. We decided to cook French toast for everyone. I think we have been in cameroon too long, bc all of the women went straight to the kitchen, and then men to the parlor. Then, as food was finished we sent it out for them to eat. Once they were finished, the women ate. How funny. Anyway, from there, ben and I headed to his village, bangang. We pretty much hung out for the next few days. We went to the market each day, baked brownies twice, I checked email, and read books. One day we went to bafoussam . I tried shopping for fabric there, and it went much better than in bamenda. I bought a ton of stuff, and ben bought a pair of stereo speakers for his house. We went back and connected them, and had a dance party. Sounds silly, but it was so much fun to listen to 80s music and dance around.
After hanging out for a while in bangang, I wanted to head back to mamfe for easter. I took a bike (motorcycle) to dschang, then a car to fontem. On the way to fontem I had a woman with a rooster in her lap on one side, and a man with a small bird chirping in his hand on the other side. Neither of them wanted to let go of their birds. From fontem, took another bike to bachuo, then yet another bike to mamfe. I don’t mind taking a bike at all. Its usually comfortable and I feel safe wearing my helmet. Its usually a lot quicker too. The only time it was not comfortable or faster was from fontem to bachuo. There was supposed to be a car going, but the driver had an emergency and couldn’t go. All of the people going to mamfe were stranded, with their only choices to take a bike, or stay in fontem. One young guy decided to start trekking. I arranged my bike, and a few min after we left, we saw the man trekking. My driver wanted to help him, so offered him a space on my bike. He accepted, so we had the driver, then me, then the man, then my things tied to the back. The mans bag was in front of the driver. We were fully loaded up, and it was not safe and not comfortable. Luckily, it was less than 30 minutes like that. When I arrived home, I had a nice surprise. My neighbor cleaned my whole house, did my laundry, and made dinner for me. What a good girl.
On easter Sunday, I decided not to go to church. I thought about it for a long time, but it’s the day that they do all of the baptisms, communions, confirmations, and weddings. Mass is over 6 hours long. Instead, I rested in the morning, then went to a thanksgiving party. One of my neighbors was in a car accident a few months ago, and she was very lucky. She thought easter would be a good day to give thanks for her good fortune. That event was nice. There were a lot of teachers there from school, so I visited with them. From there, i headed down the street to another neighbor that got married the night before. I was only there for a short time before I came back home. I also talked to my mother. Holidays here are so depressing for me. I never appreciated it before, but I miss seeing my family at the holidays. I miss our usual traditions. Here, holidays aren’t as special to me as they are in the US. the next day lauren came over, and she brought my mail. That was a nice surprise! Thank you to everyone that sends me letters and packages. I have been eating american food almost every day now. I did stop eating for a while though - last week I was diagnosed with a case of bacterial dysentery. Its not fun, but im feeling much better now.
The only other exciting news, is that I went to a wedding. I have a friend that works in the market. She has been married to her husband for many years, but they never had their church wedding. I just went to that. I went to the church service first. As the bride walked down the aisle, her bridesmaids sprayed silly string and threw confetti. I havent seen silly string since the early 90s. After the typical church service (the only difference being that they say ‘I am’ and ‘I will’ instead of ‘I do’), I came home for a short rest, then went to the reception. They had a grand tiered cake, and the bride and groom fed each other. It was just like being at an american wedding. Then, there was the presentation of the gifts, where all of the gifts were given to the bride and groom. Then we had cake (before the dinner), then we ate. When everyone was finished eating, there was dancing, but I left before dancing began. It was a nice wedding though. Now, I just have a couple more weeks for school before I go on holiday.

Mount Cameroon

Just after the other volunteers visited, I headed to buea to climb mt. cameroon with a couple other volunteers. I was thinking that the mt climb wasn’t so bad, bc everyone climbs it, but just to be on the safe side, I wanted to climb with people that were at my level. Mt. Cameroon is actually an active volcano that last erupted in 2000, and before that 1999. It is the second largest mountain in Africa, behind mt Kilimanjaro. We were doing a 3 day trek up to the summit and over the other side of the mountain. I went with lauren and 2 volunteers from the NW province. We started our trek early in the morning, and the first few hours are through the jungle. It was hot and humid, so we took breaks every so often to drink water. We had a guide with us, and porters, so we didn’t have to worry about carrying our packs. We had to carry enough food and water for the next 3 days, so the bags were pretty heavy. We made it to Hut 1 before the rain hit. We hung out for a bit and finally the rain stopped so we could continue. After that point, things started to get a bit rockier. We left the jungle and started to climb up a rocky incline. As we continued there were more and more loose rocks that would shift as you stepped on them. By the time we reached Hut 1b, my hips were starting to hurt from the funny way we had to climb. Lauren was also struggling - she hurt her knee and wasn’t sure if she could continue. She decided to turn back before she got more hurt, so then we were down to 3. We continued climbing (slowly) and finally arrived at Hut 2 where we planned to stay the night. We paid our guide to cook for us, and right after a dinner of spaghetti, we went to bed. It was about 7:30 pm.
The next morning we got up at about 5 to start our climb to the summit. Since we were so slow, our guide didn’t think we could make it on the 3 day hike. He wanted us to go back the way we came. We really wanted to do the 3 days, ,and told the guide that we would push ourselves. His only condition was that we leave before sunrise the next day. So, we had a very early morning, and started our climb with flashlights. The night before, the cold wind came into the hut, and I woke with a cold. That made it even more difficult for me to climb. We watched the sunrise (kind of). We couldn’t see much because at this point we were above the clouds, but we just kept climbing. We each had a mantra that we were saying in our heads to keep going.. Mine was “just keep swimming”, just like dory in finding nemo. As we climbed, the weather got colder and colder. After a while, there were no rocks, and instead volcanic ash. It was just like climbing in sand. After that, there were more rocks up to the summit. I was cold, and the wind was practically blowing me over, but I finally made it to the summit at 4095m (13,000 feet). We snapped a quick photo, and headed back down the other side of the mountain. We were so happy to have our guide, as he gave us water as we were coming down the other side. Because of the dry season, the spring at hut 1 and 2 had been dried up, and we were running short of water. The way down was so much easier for me. One of the girls was really tough on the way up, but struggled on the way down. That made me feel a little better, since I struggled on the way up. As we passed through the ash again, it was fun. You could slide down it, just like on a sand dune. We then crossed grassy plains and then volcanic rocks. The rocks were hard on the feet. I heard it is the hardest rock in the world. The weather gradually warmed up and we took off layers. We stopped to see the craters from the 1999 eruption. They are still smoking, 10 years later. From there we continued to mann spring, our resting point for the night. We stayed in these grass hut kind of buldings, with no doors. I didn’t like the place, because there were bees everywhere. They would land on me and crawl all over. It was awful. Luckily though, there was water, so we could refill our supply. There was a spring, with not so clean water. Good thing pc provides me with aquatabs to clean water. Just before we went to bed all of the guides and porters danced. It was the initiation for the new porters. It was pretty entertaining.
On our last day, we started about 7am. We walked across the plains for a short time, until we entered the jungle again. It was warm, but it must have rained at some point, bc it was all mud. We were slipping and sliding. By now, our legs had turned to jello, so it was hard to climb anyway. My guide gave me a walking stick which helped. Around 11am we made it to town and completed our trek. I was so relieved to be finished. It was kind of fun, but I probably will not ever climb it again. I was happy though, that I could conquer the mountain. I definitely underestimated the mountain, but it was worth going. Every February, there is the mt cameroon race. People run up the mountain and back down. They do in 4 hours what I did in 3 days. Now that I know what they go through, I think their prizes should be larger. Anyway, as soon as we made it to town, I headed back to mamfe. Of course, when I arrived, light had just come and there was no running water. Figures.

Feb 2009 part 2

I keep saying I’ll update soon, but so many things happen to delay me. We just had a few weeks without light or water, so there is also no internet. I’ll start with the end of February.
After the Mt. Cameroon race, I returned to mamfe. I had school during the week, and each day was pretty busy, going out for lunch or meeting friends or other teachers in town. The first weekend I returned, I went to visit will in okoyong. His school (a private catholic all-girls school) is made up of 4 houses, just like Hogwarts. Once per year, each house has a feast, so I was invited to the Lourdes house feast. Each teacher received a drink and snack, and the students made announcements and had a fashion show. Each house chooses students that they think represent their house, and when called they show off their fancy outfits. The other students bring them flowers and spray perfume on them. It was very strange. After that, the girls from that house sang songs. Some of them were religious, but the younger girls sang ‘DO RE MI’ and ‘goodbye farewell’ from the sound of music. It was really cute. After that, all of the students came out in the center of the hall to dance to popular music. All of the teachers are invited out to dance for the first song, including me. Luckily, by the time I made it to the dance floor the song was ending. Soon after, Will and I left, but the event was relatively entertaining.
The next weekend was pretty exciting. Women’s Day was celebrated on march 8, so there were activities all weekend. First was a concert. There is a man called Awilo that sings controversial anti-government music here. He’s pretty popular, and his songs are interesting. They argue against corruption and power in government, and he sings in English, pidgin, French, and his dialect. I have a cd that you can all listen to when I get home. Anyway, I took my neighbor to go to the concert with me. We met Will and our friend George, and we were on the guest list, so we didn’t have to pay, and we got to skip the line. The concert was more like a talent show, with many different acts before awilo came on stage. There were comedians, dancers, and singers, and when awilo came on, he was pretty good. He played quite a few songs, and when he finished we all went home. It was a fun Saturday night though. I did not expect to see a concert while in cameroon. The next day was womens day, so in the morning I went to the grandstand. I wore my women’s day outfit (the fabric says womens day on it) and watched all of the women march past. My womens group did not register to march, so we didn’t, but it was still fun to watch. I’ve never seen so many women in one place. After the marchpast Will, Felicia and I went to Edwards house. I acted in a film back in December, and my film was released. The director was in town, so we watched my film debut. The film is called ‘Clash of Inheritance’, and its actually pretty good, all about tribalism. All of the movies here try to teach a lesson, so this one was anti-tribalism. I was horrible though. I should NOT quit my day job. My part was only about 2 min long though, so I guess it wasn’t too bad. Incidentally, the posters just came out, and I am on it for my tiny little part. I am huge and look very silly. I was told that I am on there for marketing, since i am the only white person in the film. I’ll be sure to bring home a copy of the dvd.
I had been feeling kind of run-down for a while, and that Thursday I went to my womens group, Hilltop Ladies. The whole meeting I felt really sick and thought I might pass out. I went to the hospital the next day, and found that I had malaria and strep throat. They loaded me up with medicine and then I rested for a couple days. I had so many visitors coming to the house that I couldn’t rest, so I went to visit lauren in kembong. The phone network was out, so I didn’t realize that I couldn’t receive calls. I found out later that my mom and Kevin called me many many many times freaking out about my malaria. I know that it is a serious thing, but its so common here that I wasn’t that worried. (it’ll never happen again mom). While I was visiting lauren, she took me to villages so I could see what she does for work. Basically she works for an NGO that donates farm supplies, cassava grinders, palm oil presses, and school books and uniforms. We traveled to 3 different villages for the ceremonies: okoroba to give school building materials, mbakang to donate farm tools, and kembong to give a cassava grinder. At each place there was singing and dancing. It was nice but exhausting. Later that night, one of the neighbors showed me a turtle that they found in the bush, then a bush baby. The bush baby was really cute. I feel so bad for animals here. Kids are really rough on animals. They dropped the turtle on the ground, breaking off a part of the shell. I’ve never seen a turtle bleed from the shell before. Then they were poking the bush baby and it bit one, so they threw it across the room. it’s the same with dogs and cats though. There is no respect for animals here.
The weekend after that, Brad and Kat came to visit. They trekked here from Fontem. It was nice to have my first visitors here. Basically, we just hung out and relaxed. They had trouble getting used to the heat here, and there was no light, so we couldn’t even turn on the fan. I showed them the town though, and our famous hanging bridge. I tried to show off mamfe a bit. It has a bad rap, since all of the roads to get here are terrible. I love it here though.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Youth Week and Mt. Cameroon Race

The past few weeks have been pretty busy here. First was youth week. It is actually one day (February 11), that has turned into a week long celebration. First, there is preparation for youth week, so many classes were cancelled. Then came youth week, so again classes were cancelled. It is a really nice idea though. All of the schools in the area compete and have different activities for the students to participate in. The kickoff for youth week was bilingualism day on Feb 5. We had an assembly at school. First we had a speech from the vice principal, in english and in french. That was followed by songs and speeches by the students in both languages, and a debate about why we should be bilingual. The debate was funny. One reason against, was that learning more than one language is "prostituting that language". I guess its hard to find reasons against a good thing. In between all of those were traditional dances. I took a bunch of pictures and short videos. Most of the girls dancing were my students, so that made it even more interesting for me. They were really good too. At the end, there was one dance with a juju. One boy was wearing a dress and mask, dressed as the juju. Im not sure how to explain it, but its kind of like a spirit, and people are afraid of it. It was really funny. I guess if the juju bends down to you, you have to give money. Of course, it bent down to me. I didnt mind though, bc the boy was so entertaining. After he finished, all of the students followed him to find out who it was. It was funny. Following that day, there were boys and girls football (soccer) matches, handball, and a knowlege bowl. Sadly, my school did not make it to the football finals, held on youth day. On the actual day, we all went to the grandstand to watch the students march. The march started with the nursery schools, then primary, secondary, technical schools, nursing, and teacher training colleges. Each group wears a different uniform, so i took tons of pictures. My favorite was one primary school. Instead of wearing uniforms, each child was dressed in traditional clothes. The girls were dressed as married women, with head wrap, and wrapper tied around their waists. Then boys were dressed as elders, with traditional robes and caps. They were hilarious. They actually won at the march, so their school received money from the government. After the march, i met up with a few friends to relax and have lunch. The next day, it was back to school. Quite a few students tried to say that it was "resting day", but i knew better.

That saturday, i was invited to a wedding in Bakebe. The baliff (called Maitre here) was having his tradition wedding, even though he's been married for over 5 years. There are 3 weddings here. First is usually the traditional wedding, then court wedding, and church wedding. The traditional wedding is after the man has talked to the family of the woman, and they accept him. At the wedding, the man speaks with all members of the family and pays the bride price. The bride price is usually a sum of money (200,000fcfa) to the family of the bride, along with certain items, like machetes, hoes, cloth, a pig, goat, chickens, and whatever else the family wants. Then, all of the men in the family can ask the man for their share. They can request money for any amount, and the man will have to pay. He could end up paying millions for the bride price if he was asked. This is all done in private, so no one outside the family can see what is happening. When they are finished, before they come out, everyone eats kola with groundnut paste for luck (i guess). Then the family comes out, followed by bride and groom, and everyone feasts. The court wedding is obviously at the court. It is where they sign the marriage certificate. Usually family is present at the courthouse, and after there is a feast. Then there is the church wedding. They have the church portion, then go home for a feast. Sometimes they wear ashwabi (everyone wears the same cloth, so they all match). Anyway, I went to a traditional wedding. It was the same as I just mentioned, and there was a huge feast afterwards, with goat, pig, chicken, fish, and beef. Most was slaughtered that day, so it was fresh. After the feast came dancing. I didnt feel like dancing, since i was already getting harassed by the men there. If i tried to dance, it would have been worse. Around midnight, we drove back to mamfe.

My next event was the following weekend. I traveled to Buea for the Mt. Cameroon Race. Starting at about 6am, hundreds of people run up to the summit of the mountain, then run back down. It usually takes about 4 hours. I met a group of PCVs, and we had a tent there where we talked about HIV/AIDS. We had posters, and handouts, and the idea was to talk to people after the runners left, while waiting for their return. I was amazed at the turnout. With all of the volunteers, we must have spoken with hundreds of people, at every age. We tried to talk mainly of ways to protect yourself (not sharing blades, being cautious with blood, protected sex, getting tested, etc). We also wanted to explain that having HIV is not the end of the world, and you can still lead a happy, healthy life. I answered so many questions, and people were really open to learning more. During down time, i wandered around the area. There were companies there, giving out tea and hot chocolate, and there were traditional dancers and entertainers. I guess here, people dont understand why we have clowns. Here, they have men that dress as women and dance around. It was very strange. I definitely did not understand it. I guess thats a cultural thing. At the end of our time there, i started to talk with 2 secondary school kids. As we talked, more and more kids came up, until i was surrounded by about 25 kids. They were listening and asking questions, it was great. We decided to play an HIV learning game with them, then we played duck, duck, goose. It was a huge hit. For the first time since i've come here, i actually felt like i was doing something useful, something to benefit others. Our tent was definitely a success. The next day, we went to the beach in Limbe for a short time, then back to mamfe.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

February 2009

Ever since the holidays, things have been pretty busy. School started up again… the students have been terrible. I’ve had to keep entire classes after school, taken marks from exams, and sent many students out of class. The kids stress me out, but some good things happen that make my job worth it. One day a student asked why I am a volunteer. A big group of students came over to hear the answer, and they were all amazed that someone would give up their time and money to help others. We have been talking about the US a lot, and students have been asking a lot of course related questions during class. That is really exciting here, bc most kids don’t ask questions. They aren’t raised to question things if they don’t understand, so I’m glad that they feel comfortable asking me.
I’ve finally started receiving bills at my house. I received a water bill for 14,000 cfa, which is out of control. Its only supposed to be about 1000. Of course, I had to pay first, dispute later. Many of my neighbors are also receiving really high bills, so we think that this is a common problem with everyone. Since that bill, I’ve had another that is lower, so I’m hoping it will stay that way. I also received my first electric bill. That wasn’t too high, but when I went to pay, I waited in line for over an hour, and it didn’t move at all. Then someone was so mean to me that I almost cried in the office. It was really embarrassing. Someone was talking about me in pidgin, and bc I’m white, apparently I can’t understand the language. I was just so frustrated that people think that I don’t understand anything. It happens all the time here. Looking back, I had no reason to get upset, but its too late now. I’ve had a lot of bills at my house too, bc my brand new house was built poorly. The plumber comes almost weekly, and the electrician a few times too. I love my house, but it’s a huge pain. My water is turned off more than it is on.
I’ve had many visitors at the house. I have a neighbor (her name is Othance) that comes over to spend time and helps me with some things, and quite a few of the neighbors come over to visit. There are a few younger kids next door, and their friends come over all the time. We look at science books, and maps, and they tell me what they are studying in school. Its kind of fun, and educational. I want kids here to learn that education can be fun. It sounds really cheesy, but they are raised that they must go to school and learn, but it doesn’t matter if they like it or not. Everything is memorization, and there is no application for knowledge. that’s why I want them to have fun when learning new things. Anyway, Othance was over at the house studying while I was out one night. I returned home, and she said that she had a surprise for me. I thought maybe she cleaned the floor or something. She brought me to my spare bedroom, and there were 3 small kids sleeping in the bed. She explained to me that the smallest one (who is about 5 years old) wet the bed. The father drove that child from the house and said he had to find another place to stay. He also told the extended family not to house them. Two of the older siblings (that visit me sometimes) left with the smallest and they decided to come here to sleep. Its obvious that I wouldn’t turn them away. Then Othance told me she had another surprise. The oldest two weren’t really sleeping - they wanted to play a joke on me. They got out of bed, and since the power was out, I made some popcorn, and we played cards by candlelight. It was kind of fun. The next morning, we all got up really early, to prepare food for the kids before they went to church. After church, they came back over, and helped me clear the yard. They are such good kids, I like when they visit.
We had a big even at school. The social group of teachers had a visit from another school, GHS Eyumojock, a school close to Nigeria About 20 teachers from their school came to visit our school for an overnight. In the morning, they hiked up to see the school, then saw our German hanging bridge (built in early 1900s). I missed that part of the morning, but I met up with the group at the Army Canteen. That was the site for the next group of activites: table tennis, cards, draughts (checkers), and a volleyball match. I played cards with the principal of Eyumojock, and I won two games. That was exciting. The volleyball match was such a close game that it was really entertaining. Next came a soccer match, but I skipped it bc I was tired and needed to rest. In the evening was dinner and dancing. There were so many speeches that we didn’t eat until almost midnight, then of course, I was chosen to lead the dancing. Who did I have to dance with? The principal of Eyumojock. Then I skipped out early to go to bed. Everyone else was up all night dancing.
The next week was Obama’s Inaguration. Everyone here loves Obama. They think that he will do a lot for Africa. I try to explain that Obama has lot of other things to do first. The inauguration was a pretty big deal here. I was invited to a party for it, but by the time I arrived, it was pretty low key. I went with a few friends to a bar here that has a TV outside so we could watch. Everyone there knew all of the political figures. People here are really interested in American politics. We watched Biden swear in, then Obama stepped up, and the power went out. Luckily, it came back on in a few minutes, so we were able to catch the tail end of Obama. It was really interesting to share the Inauguration of the American president with a group of Cameroonians.
That weekend, I traveled for a meeting in Fontem. I took a car, but I was amazed that it could travel on the terrible road. There were some parts of the road that were all mud, even though it hadn’t rained in weeks, and such huge dips in the road (they call the gallops here) that the car was almost sideways. It was kind of scary. In fontem, I met up with all of the volunteers in this province, for the Southwest Provincial mtg. The next day, we went on a hike through the bush to see some waterfalls. We were warned that it would be difficult, but I was not prepared. First there was a one hour hike, up and down hills to get to the bush. Then we hiked 2 hours straight down the side of a cliff. It was so steep that I crab walked in places to get down. I almost died a few times, when I slipped and almost fell. By the time I got to the bottom, I was exhausted. Then we had to hike over some huge rocks, to get to the falls, and then up another hill. The falls were beautiful though. There was about 5 different falls, each flowing into the next. There was a pool of water where some people swam, but it was too cold for me. Then came the trip back up over the rocks and up the cliff. I literally thought I might die at one point. It took me about 3 and ½ hours to get up the cliff. There were a few of us.. I referred to us as Team Slowpoke. The we had the hour hike back up and down hills to get to town. I was completely exhausted, and my whole body hurt. It was terrible. For the next few days I could barely walk. It was nice to see the falls, but I don’t know that I’ll make that trek again.
The next day, I went to Dschang to visit my friend Ben. He lives outside the city, up in the mountains. During the few days I was there, I had a few cooking lessons (since I can’t cook anything), I read my book, sat outside, and just relaxed. I haven’t had such a relaxing holiday ever. One day we traveled to Mbouda to visit some other volunteers. We took motos there, had some dinner and checked email, then left the next day. One day, Ben was sick, so we walked into the mountains to go to the health clinic. On the way, we stopped to see a medicinal garden, some pigs (I haven’t seen pigs here at all), and the Cameroon Tea Plantation. Apparently Cameroon makes tea and exports it. When we arrived at the clinic, I ran into a health volunteer that lives at the clinic. I hung out with him while I waited. A couple days later I returned to Mamfe. I got up early to take a moto to Dschang, then a car to Fontem, then I couldn’t find a car to Mamfe, so I took a moto. The bike ride was about 2 and ½ hours, and I was so glad to be off of that death trap. Thank goodness I was wearing my helmet. I thought we were going to go down a few times. My whole body was tired after that journey, and the driver wouldn’t take me the whole way to Mamfe, so then I had to take another car. The trip was exhausting. After that, it was back to school and my usual busy schedule. Next post, coming soon.

Christmas 2008

So, I havent written in a long time but I wanted to catch you up on my christms vacation. Just before the holiday, I rushed and rushed to give an exam, to mark, and record all of my grades. I wanted to finish everything before leaving, and I almost did. All of the grades are recorded by hand in special books. Two of the books that I needed were missing, so I had to leave my marks with the vice principal. I found out later that there was an argument about it, because no one wanted to fill them for me. Anyway, I was filling early bc I had to miss one week of school for my In Service Training for Peace Corps. On that Saturday, I was up early to do some things in town before leaving. Close to midday, I left with my postmate Will and our counterparts to go to Buea. The journey wasn’t too bad, but it rained halfway through, so the road turned to mud. At one point, there was a huge truck carrying oranges that got stuck in the mud and blocked the road. We tried to help move the truck but it was too big, so we (about 25 cars) had to wait for another big truck. That truck came nose to nose with the other and pushed it backwards. It was kind of interesting to watch. At the halfway point, we stopped for food, and I ate chuku-chuku, aka porcupine. It was delicious. I was sitting in the middle of the front seats, and I was very very uncomfortable. When we finally arrived in Buea, it was after dark and I literally had a bruise on my butt. A friend was supposed to arrange for a hotel for us to stay the night, but of course, forgot. We took a taxi to find one and "rooms no dey." We went to another hotel, and what did we hear? Rooms no dey. A third? Rooms no dey. Come to find out, there was a convocation ceremony, so all of the hotels in town were booked. Seven hotels later, still nothing. I had to call another volunteer in the area to see if they knew of anything. We ended up with a sketchy half-built hotel, with no running water, where I had to share a bed with will’s counterpart. It was not the best nights sleep.
At 5am the next morning, we were up and on the road again. We stopped in the largest city in cameroon, Douala, which I do not like. Its like any big city. Too many people, too many cars, traffic jams, smog, and bugs. I’m a smaller town kind of girl. There was only one thing that I liked about Douala, and it was that our bus said it would leave at 9:30am, and it did! Most vehicles here wait until they are full to leave, and they never leave when they say they will. We continued on to Kribi for IST, and arrived in good time. We checked in and our hotel (Hstel Paradis) was right across the street from the beach. We met a few other volunteers and went out for lunch. This town in known for their fish, and the people we were with don’t like fish.. It was a little strange. I also learned that most of the volunteers here don’t like Cameroonian food. I don’t know if its bc they don’t try it or what, but I love it. I’m trying to think of ways to make it back in the US. Anyway, we got lunch, and sat at the beach, then had a big group dinner. It was nice to see people again, though I have kept in touch with the people that I am close with. Classes started the next day, where we talked about program planning and funding and similar topics. The worst was the funding session, bc it was all in French. Most of us picked up very little from that. I wasn’t happy bc the counterparts sat in with us on that session. At the end I could see dollar signs in my counterparts eyes. He wants me to build a road, dig a very deep well on the top of a hill, and build a computer lab. None of those things are in my job description. I don’t have that kind of money, and those ideas are unrealistic. We don’t even have electricity at my school - how will we have a computer lab? Anyway, every day at lunchtime, I went to sit by the beach and relax. After classes for the day, I did the same. I swam a few times, but there was a strong current so I got nervous. Kribi is beautiful though. I took pictures. The photos look like postcards.
At the end of IST, I stayed an extra day to see Les Chutes de la Lobe. They are one of the only waterfalls that flows directly into the ocean. We took a pirogue (carved out wooden canoe) around the bay. It wasn’t very steady, so I was afraid I would fall in. Then, our boat had a hole in it, so we started to take on water. Luckily, I have the thinking of Macgyver, and I plugged the hole with my finger. It did the trick. When we returned from the boat ride, we went for a swim. We decided to swim across the bay to a small beach. It was reasonably close, but the current was so strong that it took a long time to get there. I was exhausted when I reached it, then we had to turn around and swim back. The current was with me on the way back, so that was a lot quicker. Then, I decided to buy some artwork. If I had more money, I would have bought more, but I got some good deals on some paintings. I am very happy with my purchases.
From there, I headed to Yaounde. I had to get my eyes checked. Ive been seeing a lot of spots, and I wanted to make sure it wasn’t eye worms (that’s a real thing I could get here). My 5 minute appt told me very little though, but I’m pretty sure no worms. In Yaoundé, I did some fun stuff, like eat pizza and a salad, Chinese food, watch an american movie. There’s nothing like watching a movie where Martians kidnap Santa, while in Cameroon. From Yaoundé, I went to Tiko. I was intending to stop in Limbe (the beach), until I got a txt from Peace Corps saying not to go. Apparently, the Bakassi Freedom Fighters ( a Nigerian rebel group) threatened to invade, so it wasn’t safe to go. Last year, some oil rich land (bakassi) was awarded to cameroon and they want it back. They have kidnapped workers from oil rigs, and robbed some banks in their efforts. They never invaded, but Cameroon was prepared, with scores of military in the area. I stayed with some volunteers and had a quiet xmas. It really didn’t feel like the holidays to me, so I was planning on anti-Christmas, where I went to the beach, and didn’t give or receive any gifts. When I arrived in Tiko, all of the kids were so excited about the holiday, so we listened to xmas music, and danced around a small xmas tree, and we had some small gifts to open on xmas day. Xmas eve we had a big dinner and then a big breakfast xmas day. I was kind of bummed bc it seemed like xmas was over, but I heard from one of my Mamfe friends that was in the area, and he invited me to spend the day with his family. I went, and it was really nice. iThe whole family was there, so i met everyone, and his son was visiting from Sweden. He is a footballer (soccer player) there and he brought some of his footballer friends. That was interesting.
I left the next day for Mamfe. It is a tiring journey, but it was pretty short. I came home to no water bc the faucet had broken while I was gone, and the water had to be turned off. What a welcome. I relaxed for a few days, and helped one of my neighbors on the farm. I cleared weeds with a hoe, at 6am. I left with blisters on my hands, but it was an experience. On New Year’s Eve, I went to see the Chinese people here, and have dinner with them. Then I met the mayor and some friends out in town. It was fun, but I was so tired that I had a hard time staying awake. At one point, I gave a radio interview. That was weird. I hope no one was listening. Typical of Africa, everything ran late. We counted down the new year at 12:08am. Then it was home to bed. New Year’s Day, I was invited to the Palace at Besongabong to celebrate. We had lunch then drinks, and met many big men and chiefs from the area. In the evening, they all gave speeches. They didn’t want to tell me what it was about, but they were all members of a secret society called Ekpe, and they were saying their greetings. I have a few friends that tell me some things, so I’m not completely in the dark. I rested the next day, then visited Lauren (another volunteer) in Kembong. It was nice to have a mini holiday before going back to school. It was an action packed holiday, but nice. I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays as well!